Last updated on July 13th, 2019
Don’t Use an Advance Mechanical Mod Unless You Know These 10 Steps on How to Safely Use It
So you’ve been eyeing a super shiny and very intimidating mech MOD resting comfortably in your local vape shop or displayed proudly on the front page of your favorite online vape store. And who could blame you?
These mechanized gadgets border on the indestructible. Lacking any internal circuitry that could potentially fail spontaneously, mechanical MODs boast incredible vaping versatility in both everyday as well as competitive settings.
But before you pull the trigger on that brand new mech in your shopping cart, you falter..
- “Wait…how do I know that this mech MOD is the best kind for my vaping style?”
- “I heard that these things can explode…and I have my hand-modeling career to think about.”
- “What else do I need to pick up with my mech?”
- “Is there anything else I need to know about mechs in general?”
We’ve broken down the 10 things you definitely need to know before picking up a new mech MOD so that you’ll be completely confident that the mech you choose is the perfect one for you!
In this advanced age of vaping, we’ve grown accustomed to having built-in safety features monitoring our every move. They maintain absolute vape safety so that we can vape absolutely safely!
Reverse Polarity — (n.) When a cell is inserted backward with the negative pole in the positive terminal and vice versa, reversing the flow of electricity; can short-circuit the cell if there’s a nick in the battery wrap
However, what makes mechanical MODs functionally indestructible is also what makes them potentially unsafe. There’s simply no circuitry or fancy wiring in mech MODs to prevent mishaps such as short circuits or accidental reverse polarity.
Because of this, mechanical vapers must personally take a few extra precautions in order to ensure total safety when using these powerful devices.
Let’s quickly go over a few tips that will help maximize your vaping fun while also minimizing any potential risks.
Hybrid 510 Connections
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Hybrid 510 — (n.) A 510 connection lacking any kind of positive pin, instead directly connecting the atomizer to the battery
Positive Pin — (n.) The piece of metal in the center of the 510 connection of both the MOD and the atomizer; contact between these two components transfers electricity
Floating — (adj.) A freely sliding positive pin manually moved in either direction and doesn’t return to a default position after force is removed
Spring-Loaded — (adj.) A positive pin able to spring back to the default position after being depressed
Thermal Runaway — (n.) The catastrophic failure of a battery cell due to an extremely high amp load caused by insufficient resistance or a short circuit; results in the battery venting, which can violently release hot gases and sometimes flames from the positive pole
Never attach an atomizer with a non-protruding, spring-loaded, or floating 510 positive pin to a hybrid 510 connection.
It’s in bold for a reason, folks. This is by far the #1 reason you’ve ever seen a picture of an exploded mech MOD on TV or in a Facebook headline.
It is EXCEEDINGLY important to your health, well-being, and continued good looks that you NEVER attach an atomizer with a non-protruding positive pin to a mech MOD with a hybrid 510 connection.
Doing so will connect the battery’s positive pole to the 510 threads surrounding it as opposed to the atomizer’s positive pin. This completes a direct negative-positive circuit that bypasses the installed coil in the atomizer.
Because there is now no resistance to throttle the flow of electricity, the amperage load is infinite and thermal runaway is imminent.
So always inspect your atomizers before attaching them.
This means standing them on a table, verifying a sizable gap between the table and the threads, as well as pushing on the positive pin to make sure it won’t ever go back into the atomizer.
Once you’ve done that, you’re ready to move on to your battery cells!
Proper Mech Mod Battery Treatment
Always keep your battery cells in a safe storage container with the ends completely isolated or covered.
Cell — (n.) A single Li-Ion battery canister
Typically, this would mean keeping them in a handy plastic storage container. But if times are tough and you’re in a pinch, covering the battery poles with tape, wrapping each in a paper towel, and placing them in a plastic baggie will do fine for the short term.
Before using, inspect your cells each time for these signs and recycle your battery cell immediately if you notice:
- Any sort of rust or corrosion
- Peeling, cracking, or any other damage to the plastic wrap (even if it’s a just small nick)
- Bulging or deformed parts
- An unusual odor
- Extreme heat
- Expect a little warmth after use (≤115°F). If it’s too hot to handle, however, it’s a goner.
- Damage to the insulator in the positive pole
- Any irregular charging/discharging behavior (unusually quick or slow)
- Anything that doesn’t look, smell, or seem right (trust your instincts)
Don’t kill them dead!
Unlike regulated MODs with a nice screen, mech MODs don’t have any sort of battery life indicator. They don’t even have a default “Weak Battery” cutoff that will stop you from draining your batteries beyond all repair.
Thankfully, it’s pretty obvious when the battery in your mech is being to die—the power drops drastically, vapor becomes diminished, and flavor disappears.
Simply remove and recharge the cell while it still shows signs of life in order to revive it to full health like some kind of vape-centric PokéCenter.
If you don’t, however, and the battery’s charge should fall below 2.0V, it will damage the cell permanently, reducing future battery capacity or even preventing recharging altogether. Don’t worry, though, you’ll have to try your heart out to let your battery get to that point.
There are even some battery chargers that come with a special mode that can trickle-charge unchargeable cells back to life. Which brings me to my next point…
Get yourself a nice charger!
Chargers come in all shapes and sizes, all perfectly suited to different vaping needs.
Some are small and portable, able to fit in a single pocket, and have minimal features beyond the mandatory, such as auto-stop recharging and reverse polarity protection. These types are ideal for the low-wattage on-the-go vaper.
Others are large and in charge, able to fit eight (or more!) battery cells at a time. They can have a multitude of additional features that aim to make your experience even more pleasant, such as cell revival recharging, phone app integration, and compatibility across a multitude of battery types.
There are even more sizes of battery chargers in between with equally diverse functionality. It’s all up to you to find the perfect charger for your needs! Just make sure to go with a reputable company such as Efest or Nitecore. Lesser companies could mean well, but their inferior chargers can inadvertently damage your hard-bought battery cells.
Generally speaking, if you’re eyeing a new mech MOD, chances are you’re a full-blown RBA rebuilder who’s comfortable making their own custom coils to install in an RDA, RTA, or RDTA.
But if you’re finding yourself with a little less RBA knowledge than you’d like, that’s totally fine, it’s what we’re here for!
Continuous Discharge Rating (CDR) — (n.) The number of amps (measured in A) a battery cell can handle continuously until it’s fully discharged
Always use an ohmmeter and Ohm’s Law in order to avoid exceeding your battery’s CDR!
An ohmmeter tells you the exact resistance—measured in ohms (Ω)—of your installed atomizer. Just screw on your atomizer, turn it on, and read the big, bright digits!
So, for an imaginary resistance of 0.3Ω:
4.2(V) / 0.3(Ω) = 14A
As you can see, staying safe is super easy!
Then, in order to find the maximum number of amps that resistance will pull from your battery, divide that resistance by the maximum voltage of your device.
Just don’t build too low—staying above 0.2Ω is a smart choice for beginners—and make sure your ohmmeter never reads 0.00Ω or unusually low, as this is a sign of a short circuit somewhere in the atomizer.
Maybe a coil is touching the deck, maybe a post is loose, who knows. But no matter what the issue, simply don’t use that atomizer until it’s working properly!
Use the right kind of wire!
The most common types of wire (Kanthal A-1, Stainless Steel, and Nichrome) are all compatible with the direct-voltage type of power provided by mechanical vape MODs.
However, wires designated for the temperature control feature of regulated MODs, such as Nickel and Titanium, aren’t safe to use with a mech MOD, so save them for your flavor-focused builds!
Alright, it’s finally time for the meat and potatoes of mechanical vaping as we learn about…batteries!?
I know, I know, as if there weren’t already enough batteries in your life. Don’t worry, we’ll get to actually talking about mech MODs right after this. But first, we need to decide on the dynamic power source behind your static monolith.
Thankfully, the batteries that vape MODs use are all the same chemistry and safe to use with each other. However, you do have to keep in mind the size you’ll need for the mech MOD you want. This will depend on the size of the mech MOD as well as the kind of performance you’ll want to coax from your mechanical device.
The Li-Ion battery cells that mech MODs could potentially use are available in a wide range of sizes. For practical reasons, the vaping community has settled on using only a few types:
- 18650s, which have the most prevalence as well as the most diversity
- 26650s, which offer greater capacity and capabilities than 18650s in exchange for nearly double the width
- 20700s/21700s, which have only just recently gained popularity, but are poised to overtake 18650s due to their superior performance and similar size
An Interesting Fact: The name of a battery identifies its exact size—in 18650, “18” means an 18mm diameter and “650” means 65mm in height (measured in units of .1mm).
Telescoping mech MODs exist for those with a variety of battery cells in their possession. Due to the loose construction of these devices and the limited CDR of smaller batteries, however, the performance of these types of devices is usually terrible, so I can’t really recommend them.
Because the amp limit (or CDR) is often the major deciding factor when choosing between cells, battery companies have been fudging this number. This can be by a little or sometimes by a lot. Either way, it fostered a fair amount of distrust from vapers in the provided specifications of battery cells.
Series — (n.) Connects cells from positive-to-negative, multiplying the output by the number of cells in the circuit; this, in turn, increases the stress on the batteries
- Doubles voltage output
- Amp limit, battery life remains the same
- The additional voltage adds extra amp load, effectively halving it
- Not a good choice for beginners
That said, there IS a source we can always turn to in our time of vape need: Mooch! This light knight has dedicated his
life free time to testing battery cells in order to find their true CDR. Feel encouraged to reference his blog as you research the best battery cell for your vaping style.
Generally speaking, though, a true CDR of 25A is sufficient for everyday mechanical vaping. If you’ll be using your mech in a competitive setting or using the battery cells in a series wired mechanical box MOD, going with a higher CDR around 30A is the best idea, though there are only two or three battery models that fall under this category.
A battery’s lifespan is measured in mAh (milliamp hours). The bigger the number, the longer the cell will last. Easy-peasy. You’ll also find that the larger the capacity, the lower the CDR will be—just a side effect of battery chemistry that should be considered when deciding on a cell to use in your mech.
Out of all of the components and features comprised inside a mechanical MOD, the material it’s made from is by far the most important aspect, especially when debating the unique performance benefits of different metals. Let’s go over the most common types of metal used for mechanical vaping devices.
As one of the most common materials on the planet, it makes sense that mechanical MOD manufacturers would reach for this highly durable metal when making their devices. Stainless Steel is extremely durable, resistant to all kinds of rust, decay, and corrosion, and comes in a variety of grades for ultimate versatility. Because of this, a stainless steel mech MOD is guaranteed to look great for a long, long time.
The only problem? Stainless steel is a terrible conductor!
Conductivity is decided (mostly) by how pure the metal is, so single-element metals like copper and aluminum are going to rule the conductivity war while alloys like stainless steel will suffer. This is prominently displayed by a suddenly hot firing switch caused by electrical arcing when using an atomizer with less than 0.3Ω in resistance with a stainless steel mech MOD.
Nevertheless, if you’re looking for a user-friendly mechanical device that requires extremely little cleaning or maintenance, stainless steel is definitely the way to go.
Copper is a metal sporting distinctly red tones and (as you should know from your high school physics class) is extremely conductive—just below pure silver—so it’s a top choice for mech MOD machiners.
It’s also relatively soft, but not unbearably so. Just don’t go dropping it on the asphalt too many times. What would be a small speckle on stainless steel is a sizable scratch on copper. But that’s not the only downfall to copper, as every Achilles has its heel.
Copper is very prone to tarnish over time, especially when handled by the sweaty, oily, e-juicy vapers we are. Of course, there are ways around this.
Vapers can coat the exterior with a protective sealant or purposefully accelerate the tarnishing process to gain a permanent patina in a randomly artistic design.
Copper also comes in various grades determined by the purity of the material—C145 tellurium copper is the most common, boasting respectable conductivity compared to the rest of copper’s purity spectrum. Copper is usually more expensive than stainless steel or brass (+$10-50). Regardless, vapers find that the additional boost in performance is well worth it.
Brass is an alloy made of copper, zinc, and occasionally tin—the exact blend of these three components decides which grade of brass the final alloy will be—and is instantly identifiable by its golden yellow appearance.
There are many different types, but the most common type used in vaping applications is 464 Naval Brass. This brass alloy has 60% copper and just a sprinkle of tin to increase its resistance to weathering (hence the name).
However, this doesn’t mean that brass is invulnerable to tarnish. Actually, far from it, as brass tarnishes just as badly as copper. But just as you can save copper from looking straight up janky, you can take the same steps to preserve your brass MOD’s attractive aesthetic.
Often overlooked because of its very cheap price, relative softness, and lightweight feel, aluminum is a material less commonly used for mechanical MODs. Nonetheless, it has surprisingly competent conductivity, ranking above stainless steel and brass.
Aluminum is also very easy to keep clean because it’s difficult to tarnish. But because it’s softer than brass or stainless steel, it’s less suitable for a MOD’s connecting threads.
Contrary to popular belief, gold’s conductivity is actually below that of copper! However, gold has greatly superior resistance to corrosion while retaining impressive conductivity. This is why you’ll see it so often plated over contact points such as the positive pin, springs, and firing switch.
Silver is the king of conductivity! But because it’s, y’know, silver, it’s insanely expensive! You may hear of a pure silver mech MOD every once in a blue moon, then gasp at the asking price. If you happen to ever win the lottery and want to spend the rest of your life touring the country winning cloud competitions, these are the kinds of mechs for you.
However, possessing conductivity a mere 5% more efficient than copper, it’s hardly worth the extra money, especially when you consider that silver tarnishes just as badly as copper and brass, if not even worse. Short of hiring a personal maid to polish your silver before every competition, it may be best to go with the copper version of any pure silver mech MODs.
Your mech MOD has to attach to your atomizer somehow! But if you don’t feel like carefully wiring your RDA to your battery cell, mech MODs, fortunately, come with a conveniently integrated 510 connection that makes it super easy to attach nearly any type of atomizer. But there are still some things to know about each type of mechanical 510 connection that will assist your happy vaping.
This type of 510 connection uses a solid piece of metal that is pushed back and forth.
This type is minimally adjustable, leaving enough room for an unusually long atomizer positive pin or an unusually long battery, but not both.
In this type of connection, the MOD’s positive pin is backed by a spring, allowing it to be pushed down to accommodate large atomizer positive pins without subsequently pushing down on the battery inside.
Spring-loaded 510s are a little more forgiving of abnormally sized batteries or positive pins.
Hybrid type 510 connections don’t use any type of positive pin at all; instead, it brings the atomizer positive pin and the positive pole of the battery cell into direct contact.
Just a reminder, always double-check the positive pin of your atomizer, making sure it sufficiently protrudes from the threads before attaching to a hybrid 510 connection.
Mech MODs come in such a wild variety of styles, shapes, and shades that it can be difficult or even overwhelming to choose a single one.
But consider this: when choosing a car, you’re gonna pick one that’s the perfect size for what you need. No point in buying that brand new car-crushing SUV for your elderly grandma, right?
Just like you don’t want to give your grammy more horsepower than she needs, you don’t want to end up with too much or too little power behind your mech MOD. The shape of the mech you choose does a lot to clue you into how much power it can provide.
Mech MODs with a short tube body are by far the most common. Short, sturdy, dependable, what more could you ask for?
These come in a variety of diameters. The size depends on what kind of battery it’s meant to hold as well as whether it’s meant to line up flush when attached to atomizers with a diameter other than 22mm—vapers like their matchy-matchy! These types of MODs only use a single 18650 battery that provides the 4.2V you need.
Stacked — (adj.) A device that uses multiple battery cells placed one atop each other, achieving a series wiring between the cells
Stacked MODs connect battery cells end-to-end. This wires the cells in series and multiplies the maximum voltage output by the number of cells in the circuit. Have two batteries attached? You’re looking at 8.4V being pushed to your atomizer when using cells fresh off the charger. Have three? That’s a staggering 11.6V.
Considering the overwhelming power these types of MODs can provide, they aren’t recommended for beginners but work great for vape competitions. Some short tube mech MODs have an optional stackable tube extension available. These convert it from a traditional mech MOD to a hard-hitting stacked powerhouse.
Mech MOD’s can also come in a rectangular chassis, similarly to the regulated box MODs you know and love. This rectangular form can accept a single battery cell or multiple cells in the integrated battery sled.
Mechanical box MODs using multiple battery cells can be wired in either series—similarly to a stacked tube MOD—or in parallel.
Parallel — (n.) Connects each cell to the atomizer independently, drawing electricity from each cell equally
- Voltage output remains the same
- Doubles CDR and battery life
- Very beginner-friendly
If this is your first mechanical box MOD, a parallel mechanical box MOD is a highly suggested first choice. You’ll get twice the battery life of a tube or series wired mech MOD, plus you’ll have a much more forgiving rebuilding experience when you try making your own coil thanks to the multiplied CDR.
Have something more aesthetically pleasing in mind that tickles your fancy? Out of all vape devices in existence, it can be argued than mech MODs are the most artistically inspired. They come in a variety of shapes and etched designs that help accent their artistic as well as monetary value.
Voltage Drop — (n.) A reduction in the amount of voltage that reaches the atomizer due to meeting resistance after passing through the mech MOD’s chassis
- Caused by poor materials, poor contact, or dirty threadings;
- Reduced by using high conductivity materials, making better contact (or none at all), and cleaning the device’s contact points
Battery Sag — (n.) A normal temporary reduction in the actual voltage provided by the battery while undergoing a high amperage load
In a mechanical MOD with a single freshly charged battery, 4.2V is the theoretical max. With voltage drop and battery sag though, it may be closer to 4.1V, which in itself is already fully capable of powering a very satisfying vape experience. This voltage will slowly drop and the battery proportionally loses its kick as it powers down. When the battery’s resting voltage drops to around 3.5V, replace it with a fresh one.
The only time this voltage maximum will change is when you have multiple battery cells in a series or stacked setup. This multiplies the maximum voltage (4.2) by the number of batteries in the circuit. Of course, these types aren’t suggested for first-timers and should only be handled by experienced vapers.
And when I say power, I also mean battery life! A great way to get exceptional battery life that lasts all day is by using a mechanical box MOD with multiple battery cells wired in parallel.
This won’t multiply the voltage output but will multiply the battery capacity, allowing you to vape away all day without worrying about loosely carrying around extra cells. This type of MOD is fantastic for beginner coil builders, as it provides a long runtime as well as an extra forgiving CDR.
Image Credit: Staff Sgt. Kenny Holston
Mech MODs come in such a wide range of shapes, sizes, forms, and functionality, it’s only natural that there’s just as many firing switch designs, each with its own unique benefits.
Magnetic switches don’t get their name from their popularity at parties! These types of firing buttons use two opposing magnets to provide resistance against button presses. Because there’s no actual contact being made, these switches have very little voltage drop, if any at all, and are the most common type of switch due to this fact.
The magnets of the switch can come as opposing magnetic rings concealed within the button housing. It can also come as a separate magnetic disc. This disc attaches to the battery cell, otherwise moving freely within the mech MOD’s chassis.
If it’s the former kind, take great care if you should choose to disassemble your switch for cleaning. Tthe magnets can fly out and reattach at high speeds, breaking one or the other.
If it’s the latter, prepare to replace the magnets relatively often. The electrical current running through it each time you fire the MOD will demagnetize the magnet over time.
In spring-supported buttons, a simple spring provides the resistance against button presses. The spring directly supports the battery contact as it pushes against the battery. This type of switch is especially prone to increased voltage drop due to the imperfect nature of loosely contacting a spring against the battery contacts. Because of this, springs often come plated in a highly conductive material like gold, silver, and copper.
A firing switch with a clutch mechanism utilizes a wide contact disc broken up into multiple pieces and held together with an elastic silicone O-ring. This presses the switch against the battery contact much more evenly, even when the firing switch is pressed unevenly.
Is There A Locking Ring?
A locking ring (or some other such mechanism) prevents the switch from being pressed. This is always a nice feature, even if you won’t be throwing your MOD into your pocket or purse.
Side-Fire vs. Bottom-Fire
While they are rare enough, there are some tube mech MODs that have the firing switch on the side of the barrel rather than the bottom. This doesn’t change much about how the device itself functions. Still, it’s a nice option to consider for purely ergonomic reasons.
Recessed vs. Protruding
A recessed switch doesn’t stick out further than the MOD’s chassis, preventing it from being pressed when placed on a flat surface. While these types don’t often include a locking mechanism of any kind, they’re at least easy to put down (if not carry around).
Believe it or not, making MODs gets expensive. You have to buy the materials, pay for the storage space, and definitely gotta pay the CDC machine operator carving your device out of metal like some kind of steampunk Michelangelo.
All this adds up until you’re eyeing a mech MOD that costs more than your mortgage payment.
That said, a mech MOD’s final price depends on a number of factors. This can include the materials used, any integrated features like an extra beefy switch or a protective inner Delrin sleeve, time spent on fancy engravings, and whether it’s authentic or a clone (we’ll get into that in just a little). Prepare to fork over some serious bills if an extra cool mech MOD happens to catch your eye.
Finally, we’ve come to our final point: is the mech you’re eyeing made by the original manufacturer? Just how there’s knock-off Prada luggage and fake Gucci sweaters, even vape MODs and devices aren’t exempt from this international phenomenon—everyone wants a piece of that vape pie! But this isn’t to say that clones should be completely avoided, at least in my eyes.
Clones of regulated devices tend to be extremely subpar, especially when they try reproducing the complex circuitry and programming held within the device’s circuit board.
ARE YOU SURE YOUR VAPORIZER ISN’T A CLONE? Contrasting this, however, clones of mechanical vaping devices such as RBAs and mech MODs can be surprisingly high quality and true to the original design.
Both authentics and clones come with their own benefits and disadvantages. Each side comes with its own benefits and disadvantages. These may be acceptable for some vapers but would change the mind of others. Let’s review each so that you’re fully prepared to make an informed decision.
If you’re purchasing an authentic mech MOD from a highly respected manufacturer, you’re buying a veritable work of art.
Starting from the initial blueprint to the final product you see before you, multiple people poured their heart, soul, sweat, and e-juice into making their vision a reality.
But keep in mind, the price will reflect that—heavily. This is doubly true if there’s any sort of artistic component to your prospective purchase. Expect to pay extra for any artistically attractive etchings and carved curvatures in the mech MOD’s chassis.
The more expensive the device, the better the customer/warranty service (usually).
Calm your qualms: authentic manufacturers won’t leave you high and dry with your new purchase.
So don’t fret if you lose a screw or a piece breaks. The phone lines for your device’s maker are typically open during usual business hours. They’ll be happy to assist you however they can. That may be by sending you replacement parts or even a replacement MOD if you’re (un)lucky enough.
You’re supporting artisanal American makers.
Like I said, mech MODs are expensive, especially when you’re buying the real thing. But when you purchase an American made product, that money is going straight back to the local manufacturers and their families.
Of course, there are situations where you wouldn’t want money going back to the manufacturer (*cough cough*AmeraVape*cough cough*). But if you want to help a prestigious MOD maker continue their craft, buying a mech MOD straight from the source is the best choice.
The best thing about clones? They’re cheap!
I’m not ashamed to say that the majority of my early vape purchases were clones. Mind you, that was back in 2013-14, back when Tobh and Stingray clones were more prevalent than the real things.
Heck, I remember when I scoffed at Evolv’s temperature control as the next passing vape fad. I’m just glad that spinners didn’t stick around the same way!
Though since those early days of vaping, prices have certainly adjusted for the better.
30mLs bottles of e-liquid are no longer a strict $22. RDAs can easily be found for under $40. Even regulated MODs have gone from $1/watt to under $0.20/watt with a ton of extra features included.
So as you can tell, there isn’t much practical reason nowadays to go looking for clones. But I can concede that the allure of high-end vape devices is universally inviting, even if you don’t have the funds to afford that exact item. I won’t judge if you want to test run your next big potential vape purchase with a cheaper alternative.
Thankfully, e-cigarette retailers usually aren’t quiet about which products on their sites are clones. If the product name has the words “clone” or “style” in its name, chances are it’s a clone. Easy-peasy. Another easy way to differentiate the two is comparing the known price of the authentic. If it’s far lower than the real thing, it’s probably a clone.
Worst part? Clone quality is hit-or-miss, even at its best
You can find some seriously good clones that function just as well as the real thing. Of course, that’s only if you do your research carefully and pour over product reviews.
But if you don’t do your homework, there’s a good chance you’ll end up with a product that looks a lot like the real thing, sure. But just wait until it breaks in under a week, leaving you with a glorified paperweight you wish you could return.
In addition, clones will commonly ship from overseas, so expect to wait for a minute and a half for your vape mail to arrive.
A lost screw or loose post could mean a clone tossed in the trash.
Typically, there’s a proud company standing behind each and every high-end device, ready and waiting to answer any questions you may have about their treasured creation. In contrast, the online shop that sold you your clone will generally have very little in the way of customer service or warranty?
Of course, we’re talking about mech MODs so they won’t need a ton of service after purchase. But what if a magnet breaks or you lose the top cap? Chances are, you’ll have to become very familiar with the Replacement Parts section of their online store.
All in all, though, the choice between clone and authentic is entirely up to you. If an authentic mech MOD sounds like the best way to get great performance from an ethically unambiguous source, then that sounds like a good choice. Or if a starter clone sounds like the best decision before you pull the trigger on your own authentic, then hey, that’s just as cool, too.
Mechanical vape MODs truly are the start-up story of the decade. These gizmos possess origins deeply rooted in the grassroots movement behind the entire American vaping community. And now that we’ve covered practically everything there is to know about this electric dynamos, you’re that much more prepared to wield the awesome power of mechs! What kind of mechanical MOD have you been eyeing? Let us know in the comments below!
“Caution: The conclusions and recommendations I make here are only my personal opinion. You alone are responsible for your own safety! Carefully research any mechanical devices you are considering using before purchasing. This guide is only meant as a first step on your long journey to learning more about mechanical MODs. Do not use it as the only source of information when picking a mechanical device for the first time! I am not responsible for any damage or injury sustained by anyone.”